Once, I tried to run their 220v mig with it and it wouldn't put out enough juice.wierd. Our big engine driven welder/generator is a hobart and it's a really good machine too.īut just the opposite, we used to have a Miller Bobcat at my former job. Depending what you do and what size you get, the hobart may be the better value. Miller and hobart are the same, just the hobart stuff is built slightly cheaper. With the big tank and the cord and everything it was almost $3000 so it's probably more than you are wanting to spend, but if you want to be able to do the really thin and really thick stuff it's the way to go. I also got a 50 foot 220 cord so I could reach farther, think about that if you get a 220 welder. I've ran through a spool and a half of wire already but still have a lot of gas in the tank. I got the big tank since the cost of the refill between the smaller size and that worked out to were the big tank was almost twice as much gas for not much more refill cost. It does just as good on exhaust and thin sheet metal as the 1/2 inch plate. I've welded a lot of thick and thin stuff. Last edited by puddytat 10-16-2012 at 08:36 PM.I got a Miller 252 last year because I didn't want to overwork a smaller one. If you can get a 100k wire wound pot, about 1 watt, you could wire this in and set it to the highest value and dial your way down slowly.monitor it all the way, and don't go all the way down, put a 1k resistor in series to limit the bottom value to prevent a sudden burn up.īest of luck, you might just get lucky on another poster with the goods.īTW, for what it's worth, maybe taking a photo at high resolution of a board when it's still new would be insurance in case it brewed up at a later date. It's carrying current, so going high on the ohms initially will be better than going low.low will pass even more current and the next item in line will suffer. If all else fails, I would attempt to trace the circuit path going to the resistor and also where the path leads to, this will give you an idea of what the resistor is doing. but if you don't get any further information I would try this route, but monitor the output of whatever the board does, and keep an eye on any smoke starting.switch off immediately and have a think.Īn old trick, used by a friend of mine when going in blind in such a case, was to put a small bead of candle wax on the resistor, and as soon as the wax starts to melt, it's getting hot, and that's long before it smokes. It's highly unlikely that a high ohm value for a starter will pass any large current, whatever it was, and passing a load enough to burn out a resistor is more than just signal strength. The fact that the resistor burned means it is carrying too big a load and will fail again if you use the same type, eg 1/4 watt.I would start off with a 1/2 watt and go high on the value.about a 100K.Īs it appears to carry more than just a signal, due to the burn out, going high on the value would probably not make it work, but you can progressively come down in the ohm value until something starts to happen. The end band doesn't matter, it's the tolerance, looks like gold. It looks like the middle band is a dark colour and the two bands next to it are lighter brown, so that could be brown black brown. The resolution is still very grainy and not very clear.Photoshop might be able to enhance the colours a bit if you have it, but without the pixels it's a slim chance. Hi Inky, I saved the pic of the board to My Pictures as a Jpeg file, this enabled me to blow the pic up. I have the parts off that went bad but this one resistor is burnt to bad to read the color bands on it and I do not have a schematic so If anyone here has one of these welders I listed and can look at this part I have a red arrow going to in the photo on their board please list it here so I can replace it. I have a Solar 2175 that is Kaput do to the power board failing.
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